Tuesday, May 22, 2007

Second Day

Birthright Day 2

"Some have left...some are dead"

Today we woke up and went to Jaffa. We stopped at the shore and Ronnie read a first person account of a member of the 2nd aliyah's arrival in the Mandate of Palestine. It was a very sentimental piece, about the mustachioed Arab sailors with Turkish hats, pulling them off the boats into the warm Mediterranean waters, seeing the orient for the first time etc etc. Ronnie went on to talk about how Jaffa was an Arab town. He said it "was very different then, sewage was flowing through the streets." Somone asked what had happened to the Arabs who used to inhabit the old city. He quickly replied that "some left, they went to the West Bank, Gaza or Lebanon, some are dead." I'm not sure if any Arabs were forcibly expelled from Jaffa, but if they were, Ronnie didn't care to mention it. We toured the old city and walked around on the plane between Tel Aviv and Jaffa where intense fighting broke out between the Jews and Arabs in 1948. The plane used to be covered in Arab homes. All but one is bulldozed and we got a chance to see it and go inside.

"Don't You Dare"

Later we went to Independence hall in Tel Aviv. This is the building in which the state of Israel was declared in May of 1948. It is very non-descript, small, with very few windows. A woman came out to give us a speech. It was very emotional. She said that our state was born in this room. That the declaration of independence was ours too, that we are all connected to this land. She told us about the UN sponsored 1947 partition plan. That the Jews had reason to Reject the plan, namely because it did not make provisions for security and left the state with very vulnerable boundaries, that Jerusalem was surrounded by Arabs, and that most of the land in the proposed Jewish State was in the Negev and bereft of fertile land or resources. Nonetheless, she pointed out, the Jews accepted the plan and were dancing in the streets while the Arabs rejected the plan. While it was infused with emotion and holier-than-thou tone, she made the very important point that the Jews did accept the plan and were forced by the Arabs to fight a war that they did not want to fight. Some people tend to forget this in their criticism of the state, and it's important to keep in mind. I'm surprised that she didn't also mention the partition plan of 1937 that gave the Arabs even more land than the 1947 one. Once again, the plan was accepted by the Yishuv and rejected by the Arabs.

She went on to speak about the aftermath of the failure of the plan. She said that the Americans told Ben Gurion "'don't you dare declare a state'" and instead asked them to propose an immediate ceasefire with the Arabs. "'If you declare a state, you will not have our support.'" As far as I know, this is grossly inaccurate. Along with most nations who would have liked to ensure the survival of the Jewish Community in Palestine, The U.S. was concerned that the fledgling Jewish State would not have the capability to take on the much larger Arab Armies in a war for survival. Thus, the U.S. suggested that ceasefire be proposed so that a diplomatic solution could be found. The U.S. never said "don't you dare" they were only saying that if you do, you might not survive. Secondly, the U.S. never told Ben Gurion that he would forfeit U.S. support if he declared a state and that this woman said they did is completely ludicrous. In reality, the U.S. recognized the State of Israel just hours after Ben Gurion declared the state's independence. Another fact this woman forgot to mention was that the U.S. actually sent a little over 200 military advisors and special forces to assist in the war that broke out immediately after the declaration.

Clearly this woman was distorting reality in order to shift our loyalties away from the U.S. and toward Israel. The first step in the process seems to be an attempt to sever our ties to the U.S. by making us feel some antipathy towards it. So she tells us that American didn't want to see the Jews succeed, that American could care less about the Jews in Palestine. She doesn't mention that Truman had a deep sympathy for the plight of the Jews, especially after the horrors of the holocaust were revealed to the world, and that he resisted the anti-Zionist pressure within his own administration that only sought to appease the Oil Dictatorships set up in the Gulf. This seems somewhat manipulative to me, but people are already starting to buy it.

Another thing the woman said was that everyone in Israel wants peace. Everyone. Ask anyone on the streets, and what will they say? We want peace! She didn't' mention the terms of this peace, nor did she go into the fact that no one in either Israel or the Palestinian territories can agree on what peace will finally look like. I sensed some frustration in her voice, because right now, any sort of peace looks extremely distant considering how fragmented both the Israelis and the Palestinians are. There is no strong leadership on either side, and thus no possibility for any sort of meaningful progress.

Eventually she had us stand up while Hatikvah played through some speakers on the walls.

"Look into the pewter pot"

We returned to the Hotel and got ready for Shabbat services. It was nothing special…just some songs in Hebrew with an acoustic guitar etc. We were on holy time now.

Later on in the evening almost everyone gathered in the lobby bar area and out on the back porch of the hotel. There was some wine, beer and some other stuff. The frat and sorority people couldn't wait to crack open the Vodka and the Whisky they bought.

I got a chance to talk to Liron, our IDF guard a bit. She told me about how unfriendly people were in NYC and that she loves Israel because it feels like a family. Then she told me not to believe anything I see on CNN or the BBC about Israel because it's all lies. I asked her why and she told me that people don't understand what it's like to live in Israel and that they can't say anything meaningful about the place. She went on to tell me that she supports settlements in the occupied territories because the land being settled was unused. During the Gaza pullout she refused to take part in the expulsion of settlers. Luckily her unit commander liked her and stationed her elsewhere instead of sending her to jail for a month. I asked her if she thought it was far to the people who lived in occupied territories and she shrugged. "I don't give a shit about the Arabics, I don't care if they all drown."

Later I went inside and sat down with my group leader, Jesse, and some others. Jesse just graduated from York University in Canada with a degree in Near Eastern History. He was talking with some other people about Arafat and Camp David. He was throwing down the Usual Arafat was a coward line, he ruined everything, she should be ashamed, he had no right etc etc. He also said that he was extremely anti-settlement and that he believes that they should never have been built. Nonetheless, he claimed, Arafat should have come to terms with reality in 2000 and accepted the fact that some of the largest settlements in the West Bank just would not be removed period. Sure Arafat might have been stupid for not realizing the power realities, but it's hard to call him a coward when all he did was constantly refer to the article 49 of the 1949 Geneva conventions which explicitly states that "The Occupying Power shall not deport or transfer parts of its own civilian population into the territory it occupies." Israel has not Annexed the West bank (except for parts around Jerusalem) and so all those settlements are illegal. Arafat therefore had grounds to call for the complete dismantlement of every settlement in the west bank.

So Jesse's thoughts on this topic are interesting. He represents a confusing mix of moral certainty and an almost nihilistic acceptance of power politics. Here in Israel, it's very hard to mix the two without being inconsistent. Basically, most people like Jesse hold opinions implying that Arafat was a fool, but that he had every right to be.

This sort of thinking came up again when Jesse started talking about who really had the right to the land. On the one hand, he said that God promised it to the Jews and that God does have something in mind of the Jewish People. On the other, he acknowledged that that argument wasn't strong and that the Jews had rights to the land simply because they were there first and that the Torah is as good as a deed. I asked him about all the people the Jews killed after they left Egypt. He simply stated that they weren't around to complain anymore. So why not just expel or destroy all the Arabs? "Well", said Jesse, "there are human rights now, we have can't do that. If one day, God forbid the Arabs win a war, take the land, and kill all the Jews, fine…they won and I won't complain."

Later on Jesse asked me and some others who we would fight for if there were ever a war between the U.S. and Israel, assuming that both sights were relatively equal militarily. He said he would fight for Israel. Some other people did too. Some said they wouldn't fight, and some said they would fight for the U.S.

Monday, May 21, 2007

First Day

Pre Birthright

So I’m at the Canadian U.S. Border right now, waiting to get back on the bus. There is a Haredi couple here and they have two children. I’m half tempted to tell them I’m going to Israel in a week, but they have already rebuffed several attempts by others to speak with them about their beautiful young daughter who is looking around at everyone and blinking slowly. I wonder if they have been to Israel, or if they plan on going anytime soon or even if they support the state at all. Whatever they think, their dress tells me that it’s not usually up to debate. I think that I’ll just let them be.

Birthright Day 1

"Orthodox's Stranglehold"

So far the most rhetoric to which we have been exposed has been of a slightly different sort than I expected. We received a packet at the Airport in New York containing information about the trip, the trip organizers and Israel. I am on a trip for reform Jews and the packet contains articles about the place of this strand of Judaism in Israel. It includes an article called "Rabbi: Reform Worse Than Muslims" by Neta Sela. It is about an orthodox Rabbi, Dov Lior of Kiryat Arba, who claimed that Reform Jews, particularly in America, are more of a threat to Judaism and the integrity of Eretz Israel than Muslims. This article was included to prepare the Jews on the trip for the possible attitudes toward their religion they may encounter in Israel, and maybe fire them up a bit to fight against what they will come to see as the Orthodox Hegemony of religious life in Israel.

The next article was printed in the Jerusalem Post on October 16th, 2006 and is by David Forman. I'll quote a section of the article entitled "Orthodoxy's Bigotry"

"How long will we Reform Jews allow the Orthodox rabbinate to deny us the right to choose alternatives for our Jewish Identity? How long must we acquiescence to this contemptible assault on our dignity?...Are we furious enough at their spitting in our faces since the establishment of the state? Are we prepared to take on the rabbinical establishment and by extension the government, not exclusively for ourselves, but for Conservative Jews, Ethiopians, Agunot, single mothers and even Palestinian farmers who come under attack from "religious settlers?"

The first day consisted of lunch at a Kibbutz and then an Archeological Dig. The lunch included a speech by a guy from New Jersey who had mad Aliyah years ago. He said that we won't tell us why we're in Israel, but that we are here to figure that out ourselves. I wondered if anyone else would try and tell us why we were there, if he wasn't. Maybe they would take us around, show us the sights, bring us to an Arab Neighborhood, the Wall/Barrier/Fence and Jerusalem and let us figure it out ourselves.

The rest of the day we were digging. None of us had slept for over 26 hours, and yet we were at the bottoms of caves in the Judean Hills digging up Edomite pottery from 1122 B.C.E. Sure it was fun, but it was tiring. I met Josh Hahn in one of the caves ( a musician from NY going to Bard University and studying musicology), Aaron (Penn State undergrad in Accounting) Liron (our IDF Guard) and several others. I have sort of forgotten the order of events, but we eventually ended up at the hotel where our tour guide Ronnie and our group leaders, Jesse and Diane, spoke with us about our expectations from Israel, what it meant to us now, what it we think it will mean to us after the trip, and how we plan on getting there. Here they started talking about "your land and your people" and "the connection that you all have to this place." They asked us to share some of our initial thoughts. Everyone was still timid, barely knowing everyone in the group, so very few out of the 40 raised their hands to speak. Some did however. Thoughts ranged from "I’m curious to see what religion means to both secular Israelis and the more religious Israelis" to "I want to know what is happening in the government." Everyone at this point seems a little unclear about what they are doing in Israel exactly and what sort of connection they should feel as Jews to the land. Most of the people here are American college students between 19 and 21 years old. Some are in Frats and sororities, some know each other, and some don’t. No one speaks Hebrew and I don’t think most are very religious but I’m sure I’ll learn more about that. We’ll see what these people are saying about Israel by the end.

Wednesday, April 25, 2007

Two Weeks

I'll be leaving for Tel Aviv in two weeks. After that I'll be in Cairo for a few months. I'm interested in what the people in these places say about their homes, about themselves and about each other. I will be writing all this down.